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Going off to college?

Think carefully before getting a pet!

Going off to college is an exciting time. It can also be a lonely time for students who find themselves far from family and friends. Perhaps this seems like the perfect time to adopt a dog or cat.

Adopting a pet is a lifetime commitment. It is unfortunate that many people adopt pets without realistic expectations of the time, effort, and expense that is involved in caring for them responsibly.

If you already have a pet at home and are thinking of bringing him to school, if possible, give yourself at least one semester to determine if you'll be able to maintain quality pet care, despite the demands of being a full-time student.

Remember, few colleges allow pets in campus housing and finding a rental that permits pets can be quite a challenge.

If you really need a fur fix, why not volunteer at the local humane society? You'll learn all about the responsibilities of caring for a pet and be better prepared to assume those responsibilities when the time is right.

A well-behaved dog is the product of teaching him to understand what is expected; you are responsible to teach him what behavior is or is not tolerated. As the owner of a new puppy, training is necessary and mutually beneficial. Young puppies are a veritable behavioral blank slate. If you are able to take advantage of this special time and begin temperament and basic obedience training using gentle, positive reinforcement methods, you are much more likely to end up with a well-behaved, sociable companion for life.

Benefits of early puppy training include:

• Instilling good manners
• Utilizing your puppy's critical socialization period to familiarize him with all kinds of people, animals, and environments
• Getting him used to being handled and touched
• Stimulating his abilities
• Troubleshooting common puppy problems like play-biting, chewing, digging and housebreaking before they become inconvenient dog problems

Obedience Training

The classes to look for should include information and instruction on how to communicate with your puppy. Housetraining, chewing, bite inhibition, off-leash socialization, handling, house manners and often an introduction to basic obedience skills should be part of your puppy’s program. Imagine a pre-school for pups!

Once your puppy has become a socialized member of the canine community and is old enough to being learning commands, classes are usually available at a variety of levels. These classes start from the beginning, covering basic commands such as sit, stay, down, come, etc. They help you continue the "conversation" you had begun with your puppy at your first puppy class. By having everyone in your family participate, your puppy learns to accept his place in the family.

• Keep sessions short (around 5-10 minutes) as dogs generally have short attention spans.
• Determine what kind of positive reinforcement training you are going to use and stick with it. If your puppy is not responsive to food, try a favorite toy or enthusiastic verbal praise.
• Consult with a training school or personal trainer (yup, dogs have them too!) to help establish a routine.
• Initiate consistent house rules with other family members. If Mom says "lay down" but Dad says "down", it could cause confusion, thwarting progress.

Ultimately, how much and how well your puppy learns is up to you. Constant attention and positive reinforcement are the keys to success. Helping your puppy become a fun-loving and obedient companion also makes your relationship that much more enjoyable in the long run.

Ferrets—General Information

Ferrets in the United States today are usually raised for personal pets; however, this is not the historical use of this lively and curious creature. Domesticated more than 2,000 years ago from the European polecat, the common ferret has been used for hunting rabbits in Britain for centuries. This small creature is still used today for hunting and showing and, to a lesser extent, for fur ranching, as they are far more docile then their relative the mink. The most common use for today’s ferret, however, is as a domestic pet.

Ferrets have a reputation of unpredictability; however, this is often unwarranted, and they make wonderful companions when properly raised and handled.

Housing:

• Any secure cage with a mesh size of approximately 1" X 2" (maximum) for adult ferrets.
• Floor Size: 3ft X 2ft X 2ft is adequate, but more is better.
• Nest or Hiding area of 25 perecent of the cage.
• Larger exercise area available.
• Emphasis should be placed on secure construction as ferrets are resourceful.
• Acceptable bedding types: straw or wood shavings

Ferrets may be housed in groups if the cage is of adequate size. They get along very well, especially when all parties are reproductively fixed.

Feed:

Ferrets are true carnivores and can eat any high quality cat food. It should have 30 percent protein and a high percent fat(about 30 percent) content. Commercial ferret diets are available, but unless raised on that diet from weaning, most ferrets will not eat them.

Handling:

When handled often, ferrets are very tame and easily picked up. Support the body completely as you lift them or they will squirm. Do not drop ferrets; as with any animal, they can be injured by the fall.

Young ferrets may try to nip you. If this is the case, wear gloves when handling them and do not pull away whenthey nip. If you do, then they have learned how to keep you from doing what you want and will continue to bite. A few days of gloved hands will protect your fingers and quickly teach your ferret not to bite, as it does it no good.

Choosing a ferret:

When choosing a ferret for a pet, you should always analyze the animal’s personality and health. You should look for a ferret that is friendly and does not seem to be to nervous around people. Understand that this animal has never seen you before and will understandably be a bit concerned by your presence until it gets used to your smell.

The ferret that you pick should also appear healthy. It should be bright-eyed and alert. There should not be patches of missing skin or fur on its body. The animal should breath easily with no nasal discharge. You should always buy from a reputable retailer or breeder. The person selling the animal should be able to tell you its past health history, as well as the history of the animals living with and around it. He or she should also be willing to guarantee that it is healthy. If you plan to breed your ferrets, you should also ask about genetic defects in parents or litter-mates, as well as being sure that the male and female that you have picked out are not related. You should also check to see if your chosen ferret has been fixed. Most pet ferrets for sale today have been fixed, as female ferrets will die if not bred once they come into heat. Unfixed male ferrets have a strong odor upon reaching sexual maturity.

Reproduction

Female ferrets will not go out of estrus until bred, and depleted bone marrow will result from the prolonged bleeding. This will eventually kill the jill (female ferret). For this reason, all pet female ferrets not used for breeding should be spayed as at six to eight months of age. Most of these surgeries are completed before the sale of female ferrets to prevent future problems.

Young are born underdeveloped and are nearly impossible to hand raise prior to one week old. Disturbances during this initial week may cause cannibalism in some jills.

Common diseases:

• Canine Distemper (CD): Ferrets are highly susceptible to canine distemper. This disease is considered nearly 100 percent fatal, with infected ferrets dying 3-3½ weeks after initial exposure. Prevention of this disease should be an absolute priority, because treatment is usually futile. Kits should first be vaccinated against canine distemper at six to eight weeks of age (four to six weeks of age if kits are from unvaccinated mothers). A booster vaccination is essential two to three weeks later. Yearly boosters are recommended thereafter.
• Human Influenza: Interestingly, ferrets are susceptible to human influenza ("flu") viruses. Signs may mimic those of canine distemper (listlessness, fever, loss of appetite, sneezing, nasal discharge, etc). Unlike distemper, ferrets usually recover from the flu, but bacterial infections may complicate the viral infection. Influenza may be fatal for young kits.
• Aleutian Disease: Caused by a parvovirus, Aleutian Disease results in immunodepression and susceptibility to secondary infections.
• Rabies: Like all mammals, ferrets are susceptible to rabies and capable of transmitting the virus to other mammals. A killed rabies vaccine should be given annually, starting at three months of age.

Bacterial diseases common to pet ferrets:

• Abscesses: Common in the upper mandibular area, normally caused by Staphylococcus spp. or Streptococcus spp. Treatment is drainage under anesthetic, followed by antibiotic treatment.
• Enteritis: This is common in young ferrets and may be a cause of sudden death. It is noted by bloody diarrhea. A fecal culture should be examined if enteritis is suspected and the treatment based on the bacterial findings.
• Botulism: Ferrets are susceptible to Clostridium botulinum type C. Paralysis is normally quickly followed by death. An annual toxoid vaccination can be given if deemed necessary for your area.

Skin Conditions:

• Fleas: Fleas are commonly picked up from dogs, cats and wild animals. Treatments accepted for dogs and cats are safe for ferrets.
• Ear Mites: These parasites are common in ferrets and can be treated with ear drops containing gamma BHC or by two injections of Ivermec two weeks apart.

Dental diseases can be a problem with ferrets, but are usually the result of improper diet. Diets of soft foods are not beneficial for ferrets. Hard diets help clean the teeth, reducing dental problems. Broken teeth should beremoved as soon as possible.

Note: Anal gland removal is of no benefit in reducing ferret odor, as the odor is secreted through the skin glands.

One reason cats are such popular pets is that they are extremely adaptable. Cats are self-sufficient and thrive just about anywhere people do with very little additional care. Nevertheless, a cat's age, sex and breed should be considered if you want the most suitable pet for your lifestyle.

American Shorthair

A rural family with children running in and out of the house all day might be best suited for a sturdy, low maintenance American short-hair cat. A cat connoisseur might choose the unique look of the Ocicat, which, besides its spotted wild looking beauty, is known as one of the best companion cats. A long-haired cat or a high-strung, elegant Siamese might not be an ideal choice for an elderly person. The best companion for an older person or invalid might be an older, quiet cat who stays out from underfoot and is not too energetic. A Siamese cat, whose claws are sure to scratch expensive furniture, or a Persian, whose shedding might send a fastidious housekeeper into a broom swinging rage, might work well for an easygoing, young, childless couple.

Persian

The local library and local book store are probably good locations for acquiring information about cats. Attending cat shows and speaking with cat owners are excellent ways for obtaining information about specific breeds and temperaments. This article alone may provide you with most of the information you need for selecting your feline companion. Any pet professional; however, is going to tell you the same thing. The more you are informed, the better you are going to be satisfied with your decision.

Siamese

Decide what type of cat you want (pet, breeder or show quality). If you cannot commit to the money or time, do not buy a show cat. If you are not going to breed your cat, it is not necessary to buy breeding stock.

Adult or Kitten

Both an adult cat and a kitten have their virtues. An adult cat is a ready-made companion. He (or she) is trained, self-sufficient, and ready to go. What's more, he may already be neutered and he knows how to take care of himself. When he's tired of playing, he may hide. If you need a mouser, he can probably learn the job within hours. Assuming he's healthy and comes from a good breeder or loving home, he should make an excellent pet.

On the other hand, adult cats are generally slower to adjust to new situations than are kittens. It may take some extra time and patience when introducing an older cat to other family pets. Until he adjusts, you may need to supervise and keep an eye on him so that he doesn't sneak out the door and try to return to his former home.

By starting out with an adult cat; however, you are going to miss the enjoyment as well as anguishes of living with a kitten.

Kittens are adorable, cuddly and amusing. Their nonsensical antics and youthful exuberance are a delight. Watching them learn and grow is unforgettable for all ages and an exciting experience for children.

Prepare to give your kitten lots of care during the first few weeks. You need to feed your young kitten several times a day and clean up after him. He may even need to sleep cuddled up next to you for a while. Kittens are constantly getting intro mischief, so put away your table top items until he's older. Finally, be prepared for a few trips to the veterinary hospital for exams, vaccinations, neutering and an occasional incident.

Pedigree Cats

If you plan to show or breed your cat and you are specific about what you want in looks and temperament, buy a pedigreed cat from a reputable breeder. A pure-bred cat can cost several hundred dollars; however, you are probably not going to mull over your investment in an exquisite, show quality feline.

If you definitely want a particular breed, but you don't need show quality and registration papers, you can probably purchase a "pet quality" kitten relatively inexpensively from a breeder. While color variations or other minor faults may make the animal unacceptable for breeding or showing, they usually don't affect his potential for becoming a wonderful pet.

Long-Haired or Short-Haired Cats

A short-haired cat requires less maintenance than a cat with long hair. If you are considering a long-haired cat, your tolerance for hair on carpets, furniture and clothing is a major factor to consider. Allergies are another factor to consider as long-haired cats may aggravate allergies more than short-haired cats. If you decide on a long-haired cat and want to keep him healthy, daily grooming is necessary. Regular brushing, and an occasional dose of a veterinary-approved cat laxative, should keep him free from hairballs. Both long-haired and short-haired cats should get a nail trim from time to time.

Male or Female

Males cats are generally larger than female cats. Neutered males normally don't spray and are mellower than non-neutered male cats because they are not driven by their hormones. Altered cats are more docile than non-neutered cats. Unless cat breeding is your goal, sex makes little difference in your choice. Spayed females do not produce generation after generation of unwanted kittens.

To properly evaluate and clean your pet’s teeth, general anesthesia or deep sedation is necessary. If teeth cleaning is done without anesthesia or deep sedation, it is usually done outside a veterinary hospital by non-professional individuals. Only veterinarians are authorized to administer anesthesia or sedation to pets and veterinarians are the only professionals who can properly clean your pets’ teeth.

There are several reasons why anesthesia or deep sedation is necessary for oral examination and dental cleaning:

• Dental tartar is firmly attached to the surface of teeth and needs to be removed.
• Scaling by ultrasonic scalers and sharp hand instruments are necessary in order to remove the dental tartar.
• Any sudden movement can cause injury to the animal or individual performing the dental procedure.
• Dental scaling is performed above and below the gum line. Scaling the teeth above the gum line usually does not cause discomfort; however, scaling below the gum line (or under the gums) can cause discomfort. The area below the gum line, or subgingival space, is the most important area to clean as periodontal disease begins here.
• Humans cooperate during dental procedures; however, without anesthesia or deep sedation, dogs and cats do not.
• Scaling above the gum line offers nothing but cosmetic results. Scaling must be done below the gum line.

A complete examination of all surfaces of the teeth is impossible to perform while the veterinary patient is awake. The external surface of some teeth may be superficially examined; however, the inside surfaces of the teeth (within the oral cavity) cannot be evaluated unless anesthesia or deep sedation is administered.

Laboratory blood tests along with an ECG and radiographs are often necessary before a dental patient can be anesthetized. The older the patient, the more tests that may be needed prior to administering general anesthesia. Animals with congenital disease and pets suffering from chronic conditions are a greater anesthetic risk than completely healthy pets. If your pet is considered an anesthetic risk, your veterinarian will recommend the tests that are necessary prior to administering anesthesia.

The anesthesia given to one pet may be completely different than the anesthesia given to another pet. Your veterinarian can choose from a variety of pre-anesthetic medications and anesthesia induction agents. After the pre-anesthesia medication and induction agents are administered, general anesthesia is usually maintained with a gas agent (isoflurane or sevoflurane) mixed with oxygen.

Monitoring the anesthetized patient is a fundamental procedure in veterinary medicine. Most veterinary hospitals evaluate the condition of their anesthetized patients by using one or more of the following monitors:

• Electronic Respiratory Monitor
• Pulse Oximeter
• Blood-Pressure Monitor
• Electrocardiograph (ECG)
• Esophageal Stethoscope
• Carbon Dioxide Monitor

Along with patient monitoring, it is important to keep the pet warm and comfortable during the dental procedure. Since many procedures may last longer than an hour, the pet’s core body temperature may become lowered. By using blankets, hot water bottles and heated tables, the veterinary patient’s body temperature can be maintained at its normal value.

During the last few years, veterinary dentistry has made tremendous strides. By taking advantage of the dental procedures offered at our hospital, your pet can enjoy the benefits of having excellent teeth well into his or her senior years.

NOTE: This advice is in no way meant to replace the advice from your veterinarian. PLEASE consult your veterinarian as soon as possible to determine the best care for your orphan kitten.

Determine the age of the kitten to see if it needs to be bottle fed or if it can go directly to soft food.

• Eyes closed, ears folded over: kitten is in the vicinity of 1 to 14 days old
• Eyes open, kitten moves but is wobbly: kitten is about 2-3 weeks old
• Eyes open, ears up, can walk around: kitten is approximately 3 weeks or older. You can offer soft food but you may still need to bottle feed.

If the kitten is cold, warm it slowly by holding it against your bare skin, allowing it to absorb your body heat. Do not submerge it in water or do any other drastic warming measure. Simply wrapping the kitten up in a blanket or towel is usually not sufficient as it is not able to generate its own heat. The kitten needs to absorb heat from you. Do not attempt to feed a cold kitten; wait until it warms up.

Make a kitten box—put a heating pad in a box large enough to accommodate the heating pad plus more room so the kitten can crawl off if it gets too warm. Cover the heating pad with several towels. Do not lay the kitten directly on the heating pad. Set the temperature to LOW. Change the towels two to three times daily.

FEEDING:

KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) or JUST BORN are two of the best commercial formulas to feed. Call your veterinarian or pet store for these formulas. Do not give cow’s milk. If necessary, use the following emergency recipe for up to 24 hours only:

2/3 cup homogenized whole milk
3 raw egg yolks
1 tablespoon corn oil
1 dropper pediatric liquid vitamins

Warm the formula in a nursing bottle or medicine dropper. Test it on your wrist to check the temperature. If it feels too warm or too cold on your wrist, it is the same for the kitten.

Place the kitten on its stomach (just as he or she would nurse from its own mother) and let her nurse until she turns her head. Do not squeeze the bottle while nursing, but place a drop on her mouth to get her started. Do not place the kitten on its back, as it can aspirate formula into its lungs and suffocate.

After the kitten is full, it is necessary to stimulate its elimination. Kittens cannot eliminate on their own until they are three weeks old. Take a washcloth or paper towel and gently massage the anal region in a circular or back and forth motion. This is the same kind of activity that a queen (mother cat) would do for her kitten.

FEEDING SCHEDULE:

This is a general guideline. Some kittens eat more or less often. Generally, if a kitten cries, it is either cold or hungry. A contented kitten sleeps quietly.

Age in weeks and feedings per day:

• 1-2 weeks: 6 feedings per day
• 3 weeks: 4 feedings per day
• 4 weeks: 3 feedings per day

At five weeks, you can begin weaning with baby food or canned cat food mixed with KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer). Warning: Never use baby food that contains onion. Onion is found to cause a specific type of anemia.

DOs and DON’Ts:

The greatest danger to a kitten is chilling. Keep kittens warm in a draft free area

Avoid getting air into the kitten’s tummy. Hold the bottle at an angle to keep liquid toward the nipple.

Don’t force formula into a kitten unless it is in crisis and must be tube fed. If it gets to this point, seek veterinary assistance. This is very risky if done by an untrained individual. If done improperly, esophageal, stomach damage or death is possible.

Don’t hold a young kitten on it’s back for feeding. It’s cute but dangerous!

Don’t panic if the kitten does not eat for the first day. She may have just come off the mother, whose milk is quite rich and can sustain her for a longer time than replacement formulas.

Don’t bathe a baby kitten unless absolutely necessary. If there are fleas, use a flea comb. If it must be bathed, use a very mild pet shampoo. Flea shampoo is too harsh for kittens. After bathing, towel dry the kitten as much as possible, then put it directly back on the towel covered heating pad. Do not use a hairdryer.